Six or eight brads over the entire length of weatherstrip is usually plenty. Secure the strips with needle-nose pliers and a light happer. The fasteners should be copper or copper-plated brads to avoid galvanic corrosion that would eat through the thin strip of metal in a few seasons. You can install the sill strip either on the sill or on the bottom of the sash. If you choose the sill, angle-cut the flexible, flange part of the metal on the ends to prevent it from snagging on the channel strips.
Bronze V weatherstrips can also be installed on meeting rails especially if they are made for this purpose , but with basic types snagging is frequently a problem. Alternatively, clean meeting rails pulled tightly together with sash locks should make a sufficient seal. If the weatherstrips make the window too tight or too tall at the meeting rail, plane the sash stiles or bottom rail slightly until the sash moves and seats appropriately.
Locate the proper position for the groove by laying the strip upside-down on the sash. Flanged Weatherstrip. The old-fashioned flanged weatherstrip that forms an integral seal with the sash might just be the best ever invented. It was used on better quality homes from about until , and is commonly found in perfect working condition after a half century or longer of service.
Although made in both zinc and bronze, the bronze version is substantially more expensive and probably more prone to damage if removed and reinstalled.
You order flanged weatherstrip from the manufacturer cut-to-size; therefore, all measurements should be precise and at hand when making the order. Your first step in installing flanged weatherstrips requires a router to cut a groove into three sides two stiles and the bottom rail of your sash to accept the weatherstrip flange. On the lower sash, the flange groove is located near the exterior edge of the sash.
By placing the strip backwards on the sash, locate the center of where the groove should be cut and mark it. Some people also make this groove with a table saw, but I do not recommend it. After you have routed the sash, insert your strip to make sure the groove is wide enough to allow the flange to move up and down.
There should be a little friction, but not enough to restrict movement of the window. If you have existing flange weatherstrips, you can often replace damaged sections with new.
Begin your installation with the sill strip, which should fit as it comes from the package. To prepare the channel strips for installation, cut the top flange off at a downward angle to prevent snagging on the sash channel or sash cord. Like bronze V strips, the flanged channel strips extend past the top of the meeting rail. Then cut the bottom to conform to the angle of the sill, and to fit around the stool the indoor sill.
Note that the flange should be angle-cut high enough to saddle the bottom weatherstrip. Facing the window, install the left-hand piece of stripping using only three to five brads—one near the sill, one about midway up and one near the top.
Again, avoid nailing into the sash-weight door. Next temporarily insert the sash, making sure the groove and flange mesh at the left and the sill. Then check to see that the window moves up down appropriately. When you angle the bottoms of side flange weatherstrips to match the sill slope, you must also adapt the flange so it straddles the flange of the bottom strip, and probably trim where it meets the stool.
Remove the sash and prepare the right-hand weatherstrip in the same way. Insert the sash cord into the knot hole in the stile and install the left side of the sash into the left-side weatherstrip. Then insert sash cord in the right side, and weatherstrip into the groove of the right sash. Using a thin blade putty knife, gently push the sash and strip into the sash channel.
Once the sash is seated, pull or push the right-hand weatherstrip down until it saddles over the sill strip. It is important to thoughtfully locate the brads on this piece so that you can remove the sash in the future by reversing the process. Insert the bottom brad near the sill. Insert the upper brad at the inside edge of the sash and weatherstrip edge so that it can be removed if necessary. Before installing the stops, make sure the windows glide up and down.
Storm windows should not form an airtight seal but, instead, incorporate weep holes or be raised on lead shims to let moisture escape. Energy studies conducted by the federal government and many universities indicate that the combination of an adjusted prime sash and good storm sash is as efficient as most replacement windows.
The best storms—thermally and aesthetically —are wood-framed but, alas, these have worn out their welcome with all but a few die-hard preservationists.
Many sash and lumber companies still make wood storms and, when consulted, I recommend mahogany, Spanish cedar, or western red cedar for the frames. Wood storms should not fit too tightly into the window frame, but they should be screwed or fastened snugly.
Subscribe for a free sweet dessert recipe delivered instantly! Thank you for subscribing. Something went wrong. Just have new garbage bags you can tape to the window or fill in the crack of inside door it helps in an emergency. Table of Contents.
Vinyl Window Film Besides privacy, vinyl window film will add a layer of insulation to the window panes, giving you a warmer home. Window Caulk The Cracks Fill cracks around window frames with window caulking to keep the drafts out! Do this from both the inside and the outside for the best results.
Window Weather Stripping Use window weather stripping along the bottom of each window before closing it shut. Bubble Wrap On a tight budget? Line your window panes with bubble wrap to create an extra barrier. Window Insulation Kit Use a window insulation kit to add a barrier over your entire window and window frame. Thermal Window Curtains Adding thermal window curtains to your home is a great option to help keep the cold air at bay. You really get the bang for your buck with thermal window curtains.
Blankets and Sheets When all else fails and the polar vortex is hitting you hard, hang blankets and bedsheets over the windows! Do what you have to do and make use of what you have! Before you winterize your windows, make sure your glass panes are in good shape. If you can access the area behind the window or door trim, adding batt insulation or spray foam insulation is one of the best ways to insulate doors and windows for winter because it can keep cold air from coming through the window.
Both doors and windows can be weather stripped for added protection from drafts and cold weather. Caulk is an inexpensive way to seal windows for winter , and a few tubes go a long way. There is some skill involved with caulking and it might take a little while for you to develop the technique.
Get the best look and results by using the right caulk. While the tips above work great for both windows and doors, there are some solutions that are specifically designed for winterizing windows. If your windows came with storms, then you probably already know the process of installing them in winter and taking them out so you can put your screens back in nice weather.
Many people swear by seasonal window insulator kits. They cost more than plastic insulator kits, but you can reuse them year after year. Hang them as close as you can to the windows for the best results and enjoy the look of new drapes! They have a more versatile look and can be custom ordered to fit your windows perfectly. If you have basement windows with wells, a great way to increase energy efficiency in your home is to cap those wells with covers.
They will save you both energy and money by trapping in heat and preventing drafts. They can also block moisture from seeping in and causing other concerns. Have drafty double-hung windows? If they have a single sash lock in the middle, you can optimize the fit and secure it better with two sash locks.
Remove the original sash lock and then reinstall it about a third of the way in on one side and add the new sash lock one a third of the way in on the other side.
If air leaks are your primary frustration, look for new windows with a low air leakage rating — it means they have a tighter window seal. If so, grab the bubble wrap! If you have gaps between your windows and the frame, use a butter knife or putty knife to slip bubble wrap into the crack to fill it.
Spritz the glass with water and gently press to apply the bubble wrap with the bubble side toward the window. Using the deadbolt pulls the door tight and strengthens the seal. You can roll up an old towel or even a blanket to block cold air from doors.
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